Page 224
Go Back
Breather
Box
Valve
Covers
& Gaskets
"How
to Make"
Oil Cooler Test Tool
Q&A
Lower
end ck
"No
Silicon Seal" OK-This is an extreme case of over kill.
But even a very small piece of silicon seal loose in
the oil can do major damage to the bearings. Oil leaks can be avoided by paying close attention to proper assembling of the VW Motor.
Now if the case has been pried apart with a screw driver that's a different story. (We have seen JB Weld
applied to nicks and scratches with good results.)
The first thing we would like to make clear is we personally state
"NO Silicon Seal"
We have seen lots of good motors destroyed by a small piece of Silicon Seal ground up by the oil pump
and then sent to the bearings along with the oil. Silicon seal does more damage then dirt when it gets to the bearings.
Next point is that gasket Sealer is to be used only between the case halves and on the cam plug. Not
on Valve Cover gaskets or Push Rod tube seals.
Oil pump Studs use a sealing nut. And the Cam Plug requires gasket sealer. There is (1) 8mm studs
above the cam, on the flywheel end that requires a small paper gasket under the nut, or better yet use the
8mm oil pump self sealing nut. See item # 29 ->nuts
the one that
holds the oil pump in place. Oil Pump
Self Sealing Nuts 6mm & 8mm order
(4) $1.80
(4) $1.80
Valve Covers Gaskets, Push Rod tube seals etc. were designed to seal against a metal surface not
Paint or oil. "Bare Metal" to Gasket to "Bare Metal" is correct.
If you have a push rod tube leaking, It
can be fixed the easy way with the spring loaded push rod tubes. order It will require pulling the rocker arm assembly, and
push rod from the damaged tube. Then grab the bad tube and pull it out
the bottom. After every thing is cleaned up (no oil, sealer or paint)
place the new spring loaded tube in from the bottom and let it expand in
place. They require three push rod tube seals, one at each end and one
in the middle. After it springs into place, twist it a little to ensure it's
seated. We place the spring end next to the head and have found the
plastic to work just as good as the aluminum. We also like the spring
loaded better then the screw type. Next replace the rocker arm assembly
and set the valves, recheck them after
a few hundred miles.
If you use the aftermarket Aluminum valve covers be sure to try them on first without the gasket,
making sure they set all the way down on the head. All VW heads were not cast the same and some
times the aluminum must be filed down a little before they will set on the gasket rail properly.
If your using the stock valve covers, it's also a good idea to set them on the head without the
gasket
to see if they rock from end to end. Bent valve covers are caused by prying them off with a screwdriver.
Remember when tracking down oil leaks on the VW motor that oil can run up-hill. If the metal is hotter
above the oil leak the oil can go toward the hotter metal.
To find out approximately where the oil is coming from. Take the car to the car wash and do a good job
cleaning under the motor. Then drive a short distance and check for oil on the engine case. If none
appears, then drive a little further and go back under the car for another check. Keep doing this until you
see where the oil leak is.
If the Main bearings are loose in the case then replacing the rear seal is a waste of time. Excessive
crank end play is a good sign the main bearings might be loose. To check for end play grab the lower
pulley (on the Crank) and push & pull on it. You should feel little to no end play. The required end play is
.004/.006" and when the oil is present it feels like none to maybe a very slight amount. If the pulley
moves back and forth .010 or more then the main bearing is most likely moving in the case and it's time
for a line bore.->*Check
When Pulling the flywheel *Check
and replacing the seal with a standard or HD seal make sure the
surface the seal rides on is in perfect shape. Also replace the
"O" ring in the flywheel (12v systems) and
check the end play and install the three shims before installing the rear
seal not after installing seal. Check the oil return oil passage
behind the rear seal (some times they are clogged with gasket sealer)
If we have an oil leak from behind the flywheel *rear seal*
we also like to check the case
behind number three cylinder. This is where you will sometimes find a crack in the case. Especially on
cases that have been bored for 92 or 94mm cylinders. Clean the area the best you can and the apply
heat with a propane torch directly behind number three cylinder. If there is a crack the oil will pop out of
the crack when the metal get warm to the touch.
If the Oil pressure relief valve (
item #8 & #12 ) ( valves (2) on 1970 & later ) is installed upside down or is sticking you will
surely have oil leaks. Remember the short relief valve spring (2.44"to 2.52" long) goes next to the
flywheel end and the open end of the oil relief plunger goes down. If the case oil passages were not
cleaned completely a new rebuild will pull trash out of the oil galleys and can easily cause the oil relief
plunger to stick.
When the seals under the oil cooler become hard and brittle with time or
the nuts that hold the oil cooler on get loose, the fan will blow the
oil all over the place. The only cure is to pull the fan housing and
replace the cooler gaskets. Be sure to clean the oil cooler before
replacing ( they very seldom go bad)
Use the wrong oil cooler gasket and you can block oil from going through the cooler. If you are not
positive about which one to use I would recommend the aftermarket
gasket *ck instead of the stock
rubbers.
Oil Sump plates start to leak after many years
because they are no longer flat around the 6-stud holes. Either replace
or flatten the surface (Ball bearing can be used) If the 6mm stud
threads in the case are bad, they can be repaired with a 6mm Helicoil, Step
Stud or just tap the 6mm striped out hole with a 1/4-20 American
tap. The striped hole is just the right size for the 1/4-20 tap, just
remember which stud is the 1/4-20 next oil change.
If the crankcase is not vented properly or just to small for the engine size (1835cc and up require more
then the stock venting) you will have oil leaks. An easy way to check if this could be your problem is to
pull out the oil dip stick and rev. up the motor, If you can see the oil rising in the dip stick tube, then its
time to increase the crankcase venting or replace the rings to control blow by.
LeakDown Test
Transmissions Oil Leaks
If the transmission vent hole in the top front
of the nose cone is blocked by using the wrong gasket or just blocked by
dirt the transmission will leak oil (Any transmission) If you let the
S.A. transmission axel tubes drop when working on the suspension
(or have tried to increase the travel) the Axle Tube Retainer Flange #4
will get bent and leak. Quite often this leak can be stopped by rotating
the retainer flange 180 degrees. Remember to keep the gasket
thickness the same. Axel Boots on S.A. transmission should
always be installed when the axels are parallel to the ground not
hanging down when the car is jacked up. Place the split seem to the
front or back not at top or bottom. The seal spacer #17
must be in perfect condition with no rust or cracks. These
spacers will develop cracks when the Axel nut is Over Torqued.
Install a Warning Buzzer and save you Motor order
Case Savers "How to check if Needed" --> Important
to do on tear Down
VDO
Oil Pressure Gage 0-80 psi --> "Quote"
$32.95
VDO Oil Pressure Dual Sender -->
"Quote"
$32.95
Off Road Oil Cooler Placement --->*info
Important information on cleaning oil passages.->*Click
-- At one time the only way to
install a sand seal on the rear pulley was to cut the case for a
large Diameter Seal (about 2.260" O.D.) We have several of
these kits with seal #VM0 0696 for $34.95 comes with Std Diameter
Aluminum Pulley with with markings.
OK we have a thing about Silicon Seal so this is what we recommend to using.->*Ck
Dual Lip Rear Flywheel Oil Seal->*ck
A better way to seal the oil cooler->*ck
All Questions should be E-Mailed to Vic's
Contact Webmaster