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Case & Cyl. Parts

Case Information

Cooling Tin

Torque Info.

Torque Wrench

  Eng Rebuild Mistakes   

    10/31/08*

First Torque the head nuts to 7'#
in the sequence shown in view #1

Next torque 8mm studs to 18 foot lbs.

10mm studs to 22-23 foot lbs.
using sequence #2

It is very important to torque head studs properly so don't guess at it
and be sure you have an accurate Torque wrench. 

If you find a loose head nut, then it's time to re-torque all head studs. Never torque only one side and Never / Never try torqueing just the four head nuts under the valve cover because they are easy to get to. If you have one loose head stud, then there is a reason that stud is loose. Check out this page on checking the head studs, third paragraph. -> click

8mm head studs were designed to be used on stock 1600cc motors. They stretch as the motor expands and contract when it cools. This is great for stock 1600vw motor, but don't expect them to work the same when running high compression or 94mm pistons and cylinders. With 92mm cylinders you can use the 10mm studs and small case savers, but with 94's you must run the smaller 8mm studs, so save your money and purchase the chrome molly studs. 
  Some builders will try using the stock 8mm studs with the 94's. But you will definitely be flirting with danger.  If it ever over heats a little, you will need a new set of cylinder studs. 

When disassembling a motor with 10mm head studs and no case savers you can check the head studs in the following manner.
Loosen each head nut and then torque it to 45/50'#, if it holds then it is ok, if not it needs to be repaired by installing case savers. Then loosen and re-torque to 24'#. Do this to each stud one at a time. If it will not hold the 45/51foot lbs cold it will not hold the 24'# when it's running. It is better to find out now that you need to install case savers then 100 miles later.